I made some stands in order to get the under water hull finished, as it was quite rough after spraying the epoxy and no further measures after that.
I put the boat up by first extending the floats. Then, by lowering the trailer tongue, putting the aft supports in, elevating the tongue and fit the front supports I could level the trailer and pull it out.
I was wet sanding the hull with 240 grit paper until smooth as a baby's ass. I had to quit when the water turned in to ice and I have a part of the aft hull left for spring. I plan to use VC17m anti fouling.
I ended up putting the trough hull triducer (speed, depth, water temp) in the mid line, just forward of the forward bunk aft bulkhead. This will probably put it out of the water at high speeds, as I was able to see the daggerboard trough the nets several times during sea trials, but I expect it to be able to give good readings upwind, on both tacks, where speed trough water is most important.
A few pics of the rigging details
Jib furler is Karver KF1 placed under deck (not visible) and continuous furling line is led trough hull side trough a custom fairlead made by Silas Spence.
Furling lines are then lead on top of bow nets
Trough a two part lightweight fairlead from Colligo Marine mounted on the front beam top. Furling line turns in a ring at aft end of cockpit, suspended in a bungy to keep it tensioned. Furling is easy from nets or cockpit.
Screacher furler (also Karver KF1) has made some wear traces in the carbon fibre anchor on the bow pole. Need to be watched closely next season.
This is the final solution for routing the screacher furler lines in to the furler drum, using two rings from Colligo Marine. The only issue now is the furling line is too thick at the splice. The routing backwards on the boat is identical to that from the jib furler.