Time and energy has been scarce resources. Short season will be the consequence.
However, the bailers for the water ballast tank will look something like it did on April 11th:
I have got a few details done with the interior as well, will show pictures later. Working on the finish of the engine mount. The bow is getting close to finished.
Friday, May 10, 2013
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
Long awaited reunion with the longboard
After almost two years of abstinence from fairing boat hulls it was good to finally get on to it again. Filling the low spots, had to do it twice
Then the big fill
I will finish the area below waterline later, when the boat can be suspended from the ceiling, or rolled over, for better access.
Started to fill the engine mount
Fixing rudder case damages from the storm
Settee backs taped. Still some details to sort out regarding water, laptop workstation, and heater. I've come to the conclusion that my Wallas two burner stove with the fan lid is just too big for this boat and it will be put up for sale. I'm not, however, certain with regards to what to use in stead, but I tend to think good heating is far much more important than excellent cooking abilities.
I think I made a bit too tight fit at the compression pads on the front beams. This lead to the dismounting of both pieces when rigging the boat with unfamiliar crew last summer. Being epoxy glued back on.
Water ballast. The space below the swim step is roughly 50 liters, and looks like this from the inside.
I will put in two bailers in this area, one mounted the wrong way to provide filling. The holes in the bulkhead will have to be closed somehow, I don't know how yet. Controls for the bailers will be led trough the swim step and to a point under the traveller. The tape shows the position of one of the bailers on the outside, just above unloaded waterline
I removed the inside skin and the foam in this area plus about a cm. Then 7 layers of 300 gsm glass was epoxied to the outer skin.
Then a HD filler is used to fill the rest of the excavated area. For some, to me uncomprehensive reason, Google insist on turning this picture on the side.
Well, that's about it for now.
Then the big fill
I will finish the area below waterline later, when the boat can be suspended from the ceiling, or rolled over, for better access.
Started to fill the engine mount
Fixing rudder case damages from the storm
Settee backs taped. Still some details to sort out regarding water, laptop workstation, and heater. I've come to the conclusion that my Wallas two burner stove with the fan lid is just too big for this boat and it will be put up for sale. I'm not, however, certain with regards to what to use in stead, but I tend to think good heating is far much more important than excellent cooking abilities.
I think I made a bit too tight fit at the compression pads on the front beams. This lead to the dismounting of both pieces when rigging the boat with unfamiliar crew last summer. Being epoxy glued back on.
Water ballast. The space below the swim step is roughly 50 liters, and looks like this from the inside.
I will put in two bailers in this area, one mounted the wrong way to provide filling. The holes in the bulkhead will have to be closed somehow, I don't know how yet. Controls for the bailers will be led trough the swim step and to a point under the traveller. The tape shows the position of one of the bailers on the outside, just above unloaded waterline
I removed the inside skin and the foam in this area plus about a cm. Then 7 layers of 300 gsm glass was epoxied to the outer skin.
Then a HD filler is used to fill the rest of the excavated area. For some, to me uncomprehensive reason, Google insist on turning this picture on the side.
Well, that's about it for now.
Wednesday, March 13, 2013
Small steps
I decided to beef up the new bow with some aramid
Starboard settee back is finally taped in. Makes sitting pretty comfortable, and also provides considerable room for storage.
Port settee back fitted with hatch for access to the electrical installations, ready for taping.
The bailers for the water ballast should be in the mail. I will use two pieces of the Andersen super mini special, made for remote control.
Starboard settee back is finally taped in. Makes sitting pretty comfortable, and also provides considerable room for storage.
Port settee back fitted with hatch for access to the electrical installations, ready for taping.
The bailers for the water ballast should be in the mail. I will use two pieces of the Andersen super mini special, made for remote control.
Sunday, March 03, 2013
Saturday, March 02, 2013
Bow infusion
Unfortunately, progress have been much slower than anticipated. The fact that I currently work out of town and spend about 20 hour a week travelling contributes to the fact that I hardly can find time, nor energy, to work on the boat. I fear this will be another very late start of the season.
However, there have been some progress, and this evening I was able to infuse the bow of the main hull. The main reason for infusing is that the foam is attached outside the existing hull with PU glue, and it is very difficult to get full bond this way unless equal pressure is being applied during cure. As the foam is perforated, infusing will fix any spots of lacking adhesion and make a solid bow.
Carbon and peel ply attached using 3M spray glue.
Then the perforated release film attached with the same spray glue and resin distributing media using tape.
Epoxy feeding tube along keel and half way up the front. Suction along upper diagonal edge. Bag attached and infusion started.
During infusion. Resin front clearly visible, and wetting out trough perforations in the release film following the front.
Film showing resin front progression
Infusion terminated. Under vacuum waiting for the epoxy to cure
Engine tested on the new bracket.
I've also been able to make some progress on the interior. Stairs being finished with edge taping.
Top of seat backs have been reinforced with a carbon tubing.
However, there have been some progress, and this evening I was able to infuse the bow of the main hull. The main reason for infusing is that the foam is attached outside the existing hull with PU glue, and it is very difficult to get full bond this way unless equal pressure is being applied during cure. As the foam is perforated, infusing will fix any spots of lacking adhesion and make a solid bow.
Carbon and peel ply attached using 3M spray glue.
Then the perforated release film attached with the same spray glue and resin distributing media using tape.
Epoxy feeding tube along keel and half way up the front. Suction along upper diagonal edge. Bag attached and infusion started.
During infusion. Resin front clearly visible, and wetting out trough perforations in the release film following the front.
Film showing resin front progression
Infusion terminated. Under vacuum waiting for the epoxy to cure
Engine tested on the new bracket.
I've also been able to make some progress on the interior. Stairs being finished with edge taping.
Top of seat backs have been reinforced with a carbon tubing.
Monday, January 14, 2013
Engine mount
I laminated the edges of the mounting bracket, and attached the diagonal brace.
The PU paint was sanded well down with a coarse paper before the bracket was attached to the boat. I used a lot of packaging tape to protect the boat from epoxy spill.
Glued the steps to the ladder stringers.
Just started the fitting of the settee back rests.
And then I have this Wallas to fit. A combined cooking top/cabin heater that definitely is too heavy for this boat, but when sailing at N63 you have to make some compromises. When the lid is closed, a thermostat starts fans in the lid turning it into a 1400W heater. Any ideas for the perfect way to mount this is highly appreciated.
The PU paint was sanded well down with a coarse paper before the bracket was attached to the boat. I used a lot of packaging tape to protect the boat from epoxy spill.
Glued the steps to the ladder stringers.
Just started the fitting of the settee back rests.
And then I have this Wallas to fit. A combined cooking top/cabin heater that definitely is too heavy for this boat, but when sailing at N63 you have to make some compromises. When the lid is closed, a thermostat starts fans in the lid turning it into a 1400W heater. Any ideas for the perfect way to mount this is highly appreciated.
Sunday, January 06, 2013
Laminating
Making ready for the second bag on the table, containing the settee back rests and the pieces for the ladder.
The sides of the ladder was laminated in the previous bag
The infusion of the new skin around the bow will be next up. Bell mouthing the holes have started.
Towing attachment
Attachment for the water stay
The steps for the ladder under vacuum. These will see considerable loading, so are made beefy. On top (which is bottom in the picture) 300gsm 90/90, 10mm foam, then another 300gsm 90/90 and a piece of uni under the 20mm foam stringer that is covered with 600gsm triaxial, 0/-45/+45. Should take even the heavy crew members.
The bag with steps and back rests. The back rests are 6mm H60 foam with 200gsm 90/90 each side.
The sides of the ladder was laminated in the previous bag
The infusion of the new skin around the bow will be next up. Bell mouthing the holes have started.
Towing attachment
Attachment for the water stay
The steps for the ladder under vacuum. These will see considerable loading, so are made beefy. On top (which is bottom in the picture) 300gsm 90/90, 10mm foam, then another 300gsm 90/90 and a piece of uni under the 20mm foam stringer that is covered with 600gsm triaxial, 0/-45/+45. Should take even the heavy crew members.
The bag with steps and back rests. The back rests are 6mm H60 foam with 200gsm 90/90 each side.
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