Tools for cutting screws in exact length in order to use cap nuts as they are more "skin-friendly" than regular screw ends.
Studs attached, trial fitting.
Checking length of screws
Screw final attachement, bedded in sealer
And cheek block placed in the rope channel
Cheek block assembly temporarily attached on the rope channel, external view. Still need to anodize the aluminium and then seal between the case and al plate.
Using wooden spacers and several vices, the two halves were lined up ready for joining.
In order to be able to handle the case easily when taping all the join reinforcements, I decided to patch it together using several small pieces of 200g fabric. The peel ply leaves a very nice surface when removed, ready for further taping with minimal preparations.
Curing, getting ready for final laminations.
3 comments:
Nice work on the case. Just a question, if you need to replace the block, how will you get it out?
Rod
Thanks, Rod. One of the good things building a boat from an excellent designer; the block is inside the case, but it is actually fitted from the outside. Unscrew the 8 nuts in the perimeter and lift off the plate and block for service or replacement.
Yes, with mine I did not make that part of the boat. I have to do some modifications to fit mine. I have the plate & hole cut but can only screw from the outside.
What I will make up is 2 "straps" with bolts welded to it. I will fit them from the inside through the case. This will leave the treads exposed outside the case & I can then fit the block to that.
Cheers
Rod
Post a Comment