Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Long awaited reunion with the longboard

After almost two years of abstinence from fairing boat hulls it was good to finally get on to it again.  Filling the low spots, had to do it twice

Then the big fill

I will finish the area below waterline later, when the boat can be suspended from the ceiling, or rolled over, for better access.
Started to fill the engine mount

Fixing rudder case damages from the storm

Settee backs taped.  Still some details to sort out regarding water, laptop workstation, and heater.  I've come to the conclusion that my Wallas two burner stove with the fan lid is just too big for this boat and it will be put up for sale.  I'm not, however, certain with regards to what to use in stead, but I tend to think good heating is far much more important than excellent cooking abilities.

I think I made a bit too tight fit at the compression pads on the front beams.  This lead to the dismounting of both pieces when rigging the boat with unfamiliar crew last summer.  Being epoxy glued back on.

Water ballast.  The space below the swim step is roughly 50 liters, and looks like this from the inside.

I will put in two bailers in this area, one mounted the wrong way to provide filling.  The holes in the bulkhead will have to be closed somehow, I don't know how yet.  Controls for the bailers will be led trough the swim step and to a point under the traveller. The tape shows the position of one of the bailers on the outside, just above unloaded waterline

I removed the inside skin and the foam in this area plus about a cm.  Then 7 layers of 300 gsm glass was epoxied to the outer skin.

Then a HD filler is used to fill the rest of the excavated area.  For some, to me uncomprehensive reason, Google insist on turning this picture on the side.

Well, that's about it for now.


Menno said...

Hello Tor,
Hope all goes well with the (re)build of the bows.

I have a question about the width of your self-tacking jib track, as I want to fit one to my F22 as well. My plan is to keep the same sheeting angle (left-right) as when using the jibsheet-tracks per plans, which would mean that the traveler would be about (guesstimating) one meter wide. Going to keep it simple, and just use a straight traveler (as long as the jib traveler is always on the left/right end position it's probably no use to put a curve in the traveler).
Any thoughts on this?

Menno (

Tor Rabe said...

Hi Menno!
I think you have figured it all out to the best. My track is 100cm, that is to achieve the designed sheeting angle. I thin a straight track would work just as well, if not better. A bit longer track could be fine in some instances, but barberhaulers work fine and are easy to rig. The shot track leaves room to pass on the sides of the deck.

I love the self tacker, good luck!