Sunday, June 06, 2010

Coamings. A guide to making glueing flanges

The foam moulds was easy to remove, and the flange turned out pretty good.  The second I made was better looking than the first one.

I trimmed the starboard side:

The method for making flanges introduced by Menno is so fast and easy, that I will describe it in more detail.  I use foam used for insulating concrete when building, called isopor.  It's light and easily accessible and quite cheap.  It is very easy to cut with a saw and very easy to sand, but it makes a mess.
First I cut a roughly sized piece of the foam and place it using a clamp.  Then the profile is cut with a saw.

Then it is removed and sanded and covered with plastic packing tape as a releasable surface. All corner where the fabric is going are well rounded.   A couple of minutes later it is ready for checking the fit:

I laminate the flange on the foam mould:

Put it in place, keeping it with clamps.

Add peel ply for easy secondary bonding.

When the tops goes on, the grooves from the rounded edges are filled with a mixture of epoxy, chopped cotton and silica. This picture showing the port side coaming.

The added 600 gsm pad under the possible winch position.

Coaming top being glued on, using screws and 20 kg of epoxy to keep it pressed against the flanges.

I also taped the seat to seat front corner on starboard side.

1 comment:

Menno said...

Hi Tor,

Nice to see my idea worked well for you too.
This trick will also work well for the flanges for the boxed-floor-section in front of the mast/daggerboardcase-webbing.

Actually I didn't even bother to put plastic tape on the the foam and remove it after forming the flanges, as it's in a place no one will ever lay his hands nor his eyes on.

But then, I was a bit messy builder.